West Country Workshop
The West Country - the peninsular that makes the UK look like it’s sitting down with its legs stretched out. ’Tis the land of King Arthur, ship wreckers and smugglers, tin mines, ancient stone circles and burial mounds, dramatic coastlines and beautiful fishing villages. It’s the place that late on a summer’s day, as I walked by the sea, I suddenly felt desperately homesick. As I contemplated another visit, I wondered if it would happen again?
‘Polruan Workshops: Come Visit Us and Fulfill A Dream!’ - exclaimed the online ad. Located right at the mouth of the River Fowey there were workshops that beckoned people like me: Self-taught, Jack of All Trades (and Master of None). Here we could spend a week or two learning something from true artisans about how to form metal or work wood. For a while we could submerge ourselves in the craft that we loved, and contemplate what life might have been had we not become salarymen.
I can’t sleep on planes so a trip east was a blessing. Leaving east coast America late in the day, I found myself speeding towards the approaching European dawn through an abbreviated night. I knew that I would have just enough stamina to get to my final destination before my brain decided to shut me down. At that point nothing would stop me from descending rapidly into a deep, babylike sleep until the following morning when I would awake, ravenous for a Full English Breakfast.
I woke in a panic. The windows were in the wrong place! Where was I? Laying stock still, I allowed myself to become fully awake. Like Dr. Who, gingerly stepping from the Tardis, I looked around and discovered that I was in a hotel in Cornwall. And like Talking Heads, I began to answer the question: ‘How did I get here?’ As my heart rate subsided, the events of the previous day came back into focus. I was in a room at The White Swan (no doubt known locally as ‘The Mucky Duck’). It was quaintly furnished and welcoming. And it smelled nice. Imperial Leather - posh soap! I’d made a good hotel choice. I followed the perfume into the Lilliputian bathroom. There it was on the sink - a cake of caramel soap with a red and gold label on top. It took me back to visits with my grandmother, herself a native of this enchanting land, and in an instant I was sad. But no time for that - get up and get going!
Full English Breakfast - who was I kidding? Nowadays, I could just manage a bowl of cereal and some toast, all washed down with a ‘nice cup of tea’, or two. The breakfast room was a sunny adjunct at the back of the hotel with views over the town and of a sliver of clear horizon that was the sea. To my joy, the lady overseeing breakfast was middle aged and liked to chat. Due to my years in the former colonies, my ex-fellow countrymen thought I was an American. This was a good thing as they were generally more polite and helpful. Of course, she wanted to know where in America I was from. I could hear my grandmother asking, “Where be ‘e from?” Cheryl used a more modern vernacular. I told her that I was from ‘near Boston’ - a place most people had heard of. Trying to explain that Rhode Island wasn’t actually an island, and then how far it was from a place they would know, had become tiresome long ago. She soon extracted why I was there and passed on some recommendations for restaurants and the name of a taxi driver who could get me to the workshop in the morning. I had considered renting a car, which in my younger days would have been an adventure. Now, driving on the left, which was the right side, after driving on the right, which was the wrong side, was too much for my aging brain.
Jake was a good driver but not much of a conversationalist. He was probably connected in some way to Cheryl, and she did all the talking. Walking into the workshop, I noticed a group forming at the far end. But before I ventured over, I stopped to look around. I was in a temple - a sacred place to those who like to form things from nature. The wide, heavy planks of the floor had been Pollocked over the years with paint, varnish, splatters of molten metal, gouges from dropped tools and a blackening that could only have been caused by fire. A cacophony of different smells assailed me - the remnants of hot and molten metal, wood that had been worked until it smoked, the incense of solder and the sweat of human toil. They hung in the air and would never go away. The barn was filled with benches, metal seats and all the tools that a craftsman’s heart could possibly desire. Quiet now, it would soon hum with industry as acolytes applied the skills that they were learning to their art. At the end of the day they would have in front of them what had only existed in their imaginations at the beginning. It wouldn’t be perfect, but it would be beautiful.
It was a small group which is what I had hoped for. There were multiple genders which were revealed as we introduced ourselves. I was going to have difficulty remembering the desired pronouns but I hoped that they would forgive someone who had trouble remembering people’s names, let alone anything else. I had a nice feeling that this group was going to gel. Nobody was going to pretend that they knew more than they did, and nobody was going to feel too embarrassed to ask a question. And so it was. The week flew by and I tried my hand at the skills that I had first encountered when I was young. Then I had been convinced that they were just stepping stones to something better. I had heard the call back then but had ignored it. I had moved into the life that I was supposed to have - university, a proper job, security, a pension, and finally the relief of retirement.
That week my dream had been fulfilled, just as promised. I was now slightly better at tin-smithing, brazing and welding. I was a lot better at blacksmithing, my favorite activity. Nothing compared to drawing a white-hot iron from the forge and beating it into shape as it slowly cooled to an angry red. Nothing compared to the vicious hiss of steam as it was quenched. I envisioned myself a muscled, bearded giant garbed in a blackened leather apron, sweat glistening in the light of the fire. Really, I was just a white-haired old man, muscles straining, T-shirt drenched, but with a smile on his face that told the world that he was having a bloody good time.
I was over the vast Atlantic watching the day end. I had some new friends, some of whom I might see again, and lots of lovely memories. There had been no homesickness. My life may not have followed the path that I sometimes wished for, but it had been good and I was content. Somewhere in the hold of the giant aircraft was my suitcase and packed carefully in the middle was the gift that I had made for my wife. It was a flame-cut heart hewn from a sheet of stainless steel, the blast from the cutting torch inscribing iridescent colors at its edges. As it had fallen to the floor, I realized that it was just like we were - not perfect, but enduring and, in our own way, beautiful.